How To Run Your Own Gas Line Underground
Running a gas line underground to a garage, pole barn, or any separate outbuilding from your home is an excellent project for even the average do-it-yourselfer. Digging that ditch is the worst part, but a few simple steps can help the project be completed safely.
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- Purchase a mechanical permit to run a gas line.
- Purchase PE pipe with risers and fittings.
- Dig your trench at least 18 inches deep.
- Cut and lay in your pipe with vertical risers and plumb.
- Pressure test pipe with air.
- Call for inspection and get approved.
- Connect the ends of the pipe to the source and other gas lines.
- Check for leaks at your new connections.
The materials needed are simple and easy to assemble, with no special tools required. You can get a visual of the different sizes of these materials by going here to Amazon. You no longer need the PE pipe welding machine.
You might want to rent a trenching machine.
Remember to call 811 “Call Before You Dig” or look at their website. In 2005, the FCC made 811 a universal number for 71 universal services. Canada has done the same thing with 811, as you can see on their website about digging in Canada.
I’ve helped many of my customers with this project even though they probably could have done the whole job independently. This is especially true now with great new products like (ad) PE pipe and fittings available online at Home Depot.
These products made by (ad) Home-Flex can also be shipped to your door from Amazon.
Sometimes, they don’t want to hassle buying the pipe and feel safer knowing someone has done this before. So, I would supply the materials and provide a helping hand, and I wouldn’t have to dig that ditch or fill it in.
The materials for running a gas line underground are readily available now, and you, as a homeowner, can do gas piping for your home. This is true in almost all counties in the USA, but I’m not sure about countries other than the USA. Just call your local building department if you have one and verify.
If you are uncertain about doing this DIY project, I wrote what I thought was a convincing article about how to find a good contractor: 30 Questions When Buying A New HVAC System. Read it and pick the questions that apply.
This article aims to help you feel confident that you can do this job. Let me fill in the blanks and help you run that pipe so you can enjoy a warm winter working on that hot rod or whatever projects your shop allows you to turn out.
You Need A Mechanical Permit To Run Your Gas Line
If you are unfamiliar with getting mechanical permits, it’s generally easier than applying for a building permit. A few counties make it very hard, but you can do it.
In the two states I’m used to doing business in, it simply filling out a form and checking a few boxes. It’s done online now, and we just dropped by the courthouse and picked up the permit. Inspections are scheduled on a phone app, or you can call.
And then, of course, paying for the permit. It should be safe to say that the average cost for a mechanical permit across the nation should be around a hundred dollars or more, with inflation.
When you purchase your permit, you will be given all the instructions on finalizing the inspection for your particular area.
Keep all your paperwork, especially if you ever sell your home, so you have immediate proof that you purchased proper permits and had a final inspection.
In most areas, you will be given a bright card to be displayed so that the inspector driving by can spot your home in case he can’t see or read the address.
You will also be given the signature card the inspector will sign when they approve your job. Keep this in a safe place. Your county probably will have this on record, but you can be the judge if you want to trust their record-keeping system.
I just had a lady call me. She bought a home where I installed a heat pump several years back. The county contacted her to finalize permits on the heat pump that were still open. I could never get my customer to call for inspections. She had no proof of final inspection and will have to buy a new permit.
I’ve been researching this and related things on gas piping because things vary from state to state, and I don’t want to give out wrong information. For example, if you search “Do I need a permit to run a gas line underground?”.
One of the answers I got while searching on the most popular search engine was…………..
So, don’t use the wrong pipe. Follow along and do this yourself, safely and reliably. Discover the best way to run a gas line underground.
How Deep Does A Gas Line Have To Be Buried?
Generally, the depth of your ditch should be 18 to 24 inches. The type of terrain will have something to do with the depth.
Always check with your local building department for specific codes regarding the depth of your ditch in your area.
You will be using a form of plastic pipe, so the bottom of your ditch should be clear of rocks and debris that can cause problems with the new pipe. If the ditch is rough, it may need to be dug deeper and filled with a few inches of good, clean-fill dirt or sand to protect the gas line.
Code requires some additional work before you cover your pipe in the ditch. An inspector will want to inspect the ditch before you cover the pipe, and underground piping has to be detectable after it’s covered.
More than one method can be used for locating underground pipes. If you’re curious about these methods, you can check out this site; it’s well-illustrated.
When future tenants begin new projects that require disturbing the earth around your house, it’s vital that your gas line can be discovered quickly and accurately.
This Is How To Locate Gas Lines Underground
Usually, a green-coated wire is buried alongside your gas line.
When you call before you dig, people come to find buried TV cables, phone lines, water lines, and anything else that may be buried on your property. They will attach a signal generator to the green tracer wire, which enables a handheld device to read the location of your gas line.
What Kind Of Pipe Is Used For Natural Gas Underground?
Some of my customers have asked me what type of pipe is used for underground gas lines. I like to steer them away from using steel pipe because of underground leaks. Coated steel is an option, but it is more difficult than using PE pipe.
Polyethylene pipe, which we will refer to as PE pipe, is made from the polymerization of ethylene. It’s yellow, comes in a roll, and it’s very lightweight. You can probably fit all you need into your trunk.
Can you run a steel gas line underground? Yes, you could use fusion bonded steel pipe, but it’s so much more work, and if your ditch is over 21 feet long, you will have joints underground and have to cut and thread the pipe, and the time involved is so much longer, and it’s just not worth talking about here.
With PE pipe, you will have one single piece of pipe from end to end, and it’s so simple and clean compared to the cutting and threading of steel pipe. Don’t do it. PE pipe is superior to anything else for gas pipe in a ditch.
I can only speak for half of a dozen counties I’ve done work in, but as an example, let me use my own shop. I installed the gas line after construction. I core-drilled a two-inch hole through the bottom plate and the concrete, with the ditch ending just under the footing. I then poked the riser up into the wall of the garage.
It was inspected and passed with flying colors.
Before PE pipe and easy-coupled fittings were available, we had to have a local propane company fuse the risers on the end of our pipe.
We would have to give them the exact dimensions end to end and hope you got it right when you laid it in the ditch. Now, you can lay it in the ditch and cut it to fit on the spot.
The internet has some comments about using PVC pipes. PVC stands for polyvinyl chloride. That’s something to shy away from. The information is unclear because of the misinformation available. PVC has specific uses, and natural gas and propane are not listed.
This is where that plumber says you could use the wrong pipe and cause an explosion. Things are constantly changing. That includes piping and products used for natural gas and propane. Do your homework and buy the right stuff.
What Size PE Pipe Do I Need?
The diameter of the pipe you need is determined by the length of the pipe and the Btu load (size of your equipment) at the end of the gas line.
Be sure to consider any future appliances you may want to add in the future. Upsizing the PE pipe in your ditch is cheaper now than later.
You may have already got a quote or two to do this project. That’s probably why you’re looking into doing it yourself. They may have told you the size or put the correct size on their quote.
Another option to know the correct one would be to call tech support for the brand of pipe you bought. They may or may not want to be helpful. Try another brand for tech support.
One last option is to pay an HVAC contractor or a plumber to come out and do the sizing. They could even do that over the phone if you gave them the correct information.
If you want to figure it out yourself, check out these charts and the forum below.
- up.codes/s/required-gas-piping-size
- engineeringtoolbox.com/natural-gas-pipe-sizing
- doityourself.com/forum/natural-gas-pipe-size-calculator.html
How Much Should It Cost To Bury My PE Pipe?
These prices vary in different areas of the country, so I tried to list them on the high side of what I think should be.
Permit cost should be around $100.00
A daily rental for a 24″ trenching machine is less than $200.00, and closer to $125.00 for a four-hour rental.
On Amazon, you can get 100 feet of 1″ PE pipe for just over $200.00, and I chose 1″ because it’s an average size.
Add in two risers at about $85.00 each for two would be $170.00
There are always miscellaneous items like a pressure gauge for less than $10.00 and the fittings to connect. You may find a reverse-threaded coupling handy.
Some inspectors may not want to see a union in this application. A reverse-threaded coupling would make the job look more professional and impress your inspector.
Reverse couplings can be intimidating initially, but with a little trial and error, you’ll get the idea.
It’s nothing more than a short length of pipe or nipple with right-handed threads on one end and left-handed threads on the other. A special coupling fits on the left-handed thread end, connecting two pipes like a union.
The arrows point to the unpainted reverse coupling nipple on top connected to the riser at the bottom arrow.
So, back to how much it costs to run a gas line underground: remember, prices are crazy these days, so do your homework and check around for the best prices and delivery if necessary.
- Permit $100
- Trencher $170
- PE pipe 3/4 X 100′ (ad) $60. Your length and diameter may vary.
- Two risers $170 (ad)
- Misc $50
- Total $690
That should be a good budget number to get some ideas with. I know you’re a prudent shopper who can do it for less. If you’re like me, you take these numbers and double them. It just never seems to fail. But look on the bright side with all the labor costs you will save.
Conclusion
The articles on my website have been fun and are beginning to return a little revenue from ads and some affiliate links.
I aim to replace my part-time or semi-retired income from working in the HVAC arena and fully retire within the next couple of years.
So, how do they run the gas line underground? Simple, right? Now that you know, you can run a gas line underground for a grill, maybe a fire pit, or any other remote gas fixture you can think of.
Running propane gas lines underground is the same principle. Be sure to follow local codes and restrictions as they vary in jurisdictions. Learn the differences between natural gas and LP or propane. One is lighter than air, the other heavier.
Consider an earthquake safety shut-off valve. I wrote an article about these safety valves. You can read it here.
Customers ask about running a copper gas line underground. In some counties, it’s legal to run copper gas lines aboveground but never underground, which I’ve never experienced or heard of. Electrolysis will attack copper and eat holes right through it.
Chad, I hope this email finds you well. I in in myrtle beach and we are putting in a stamped concrete patio in the backyard and want to run gas or a fire pit. Can we run the line uner the patio or should we do it outside the patio? Also, if we can do it under the patio can we put PVC conduit under the patio and then run the gas line through it? Problem is that I can not get a plumber for a few weeks and the patio is supposed to be poured next week. Any info is appreciated . thanks
Mike, I would either run the line outside the patio or in a liner under the concrete. But I would also consult your local building code officials. – Chad
Hello. So I am wanting to install a lp line for a tankless water heater in a pier and beam house. Does the pe lp line need to be buried under the house?
I wouldn’t think so, but that’s a question for your local building department because those kind of codes vary across the country.
I would be interested in adding a shut off valve after the meter for the riser supply.
Just for the convenience of shutting off the gas supply if I ever needed to such as turning off the gas to pool heater during the winter. Or if in an emergency to kill the gas supply. Is there any reason why I should not or could not have a separate shut off valve other than the meter valve? Thank you, paul.
Paul, I don’t know of a reason why you shouldn’t be able to add a shutoff valve after the meter. You own everything after the meter. Earthquake shutoff valves are in that position. As always I like to advise people to contact there local permitting agencies, but that’s up to you.- Chad
A friend who just dug a trench in clay country, in Ontario Canada. I spoke with his Mom, that they still need gravel in the trench, she said “No”. I always thought you did because of ground movage. Who is correct, please.
Catherine, in my part of the country we just have to make sure it’s good clean material with no rocks to rub the pipe. Up north where you are I don’t know what they require. It’s best to check with your local building officials. – Chad
I’m planning on installing an electrical sub panel in my garage and have been looking into the idea of core drilling. Would you be able to recommend the tools that you used to get that 2 in hole drilled? I’m really wanting to avoid having to run conduit up the side of the garage by going through the wall/foundation as you’ve done here. On the house side, I won’t mind the exposed conduit too much since it’s mostly tucked away, but my garage wall is sitting right on a walkway!
Brandon, I have an old hammer drill. If you search hammer drill even in Youtube you’ll get an idea of what works best. Just drilling isn’t enough for most holes over half an inch or so. You want a hammer action also. I’d look at harbor freight since it won’t be something you’d use everyday. Look at some reviews if you’re skeptical. Chad
I’m putting a pool in with a heater I wanted to come in through my basement into my natural gas line out to the pool heater does the connections from the plastic to metal have to be made underground or can I come into the house with the plastic gas line? Same on pool end that way everything buried is just the line no connections
Ryan, sounds like something that should be a home run from the gas meter. Be careful not to rob fuel from other appliances. PE pipe is great for underground and into a structure, but I’d convert it to flex or something more appropriate for a basement. Local codes should dictate what to use and where. A pool sounds nice.
Can a gas line be terminated under ground or can it be terminated outside.
I want to run a line for my tri-fuel generator.
Leonard, I would avoid covering any connections or fittings.
Chad, can I run a natural gas line across my septic line that runs from the house to the tank?
kevin, I can’t see why that would be a problem as long as you maintain proper depth. If your permitting the job the guy to ask would be your local building department since those type of issues can vary from place to place. -Chad
Great article and very valuable information. We are building an outdoor kitchen with a covered patio. I need to stub out gas at two locations, ideally coming up through the concrete slab where the appliances are located. I can tie into gas either under the house where the fireplace is or around the corner at the meter. My question is, what is the transition to use coming up through concrete? Do I connect black pipe with a union and elbow and stub out 6″ or 8″ above the pour? Not real clear on this. Thanks in advance for your advice.
Tim, sounds like a question to be reviewed by your building department. Best to come from the meter as to not rob fuel from other appliances. All gas line under concrete should be lined with pvc pipe. But your local authority will know the particulars for your area. – Chad
Hi Chad, I’m getting ready to pour a concrete patio slab in my backyard and want a firepit in it connected to my large LP tank (about 30 ft away). I’m hiring the gas company to do the connections as they have to add the connection off the main tank but looks like concrete will be poured before they can get here. I’d like to just run some approved (CSST or PE) in another pipe (PVC?) just in case it ever need to get replaced or would it be safer/better to just pour concrete directly over the gas line? Thanks!
Ed, Best to put it in a liner like you mentioned. PVC is usually an approved liner.-Chad
Hi Chad, we are building a house and noticed that the gas company laid the line on an angle from the street (source) and crossed over the water line. So the gas line sits on top the water line at a point close to the house. Is this acceptable? Seems like it shouldn’t pass inspection?
Hi Colleen,
That’s an issue you’ll have to address to your utilities and/or your building department. Just a phone call should do it.
Is it possible to use 1 1/4 inch yellow pex natural gas line under a house on piers for the purpose of a natural gas standby generator. The generator will be on back side of the house which requires gas line to be under house for minimizing the length. I can try to bury it some and there will be no connections under the house.
Hey Tim, It shouldn’t be any different than running a gas line under a house with a foundation, which you can do. Maybe it’s something you could run by your local building department. Just sayin.
Chad
You mention a “sleeve” when passing through concrete. Does this have to be a specific material? Metal Pipe? PVC Conduit?
I have a short run about of about 12 ft of 1.5″ Chicago Fittings PE with X-Risers that will be going to a concrete pool pad for a heater. Should I run a conduit sleeve the entire distance or just sleeve at the concrete penitration?
Scott, You should be good just protecting the pipe as it passes through the concrete. The rest would be alright in good clean dirt or sand.
Chad,
Thanks for your terrific article on gas lines. One question — can I bury an electric line in the same trench as the gas line as the utility companies do?
Thanks.
Tom
Tom, I’ve done that. The two line should be kept separated as much as possible. Be sure to ask your local inspector or building department because thing vary from place to place. Good Luck, Chad
Hey Chad, I found a small slice in the outer yellow tubing of the PE running underground to an emergency generator. The copper is visible under the flap but no damage was done to the copper. Will the dirt and rainwater cause that spot to deteriorate or affect the life of the run?
Thanks in advance
Anthony, It can be a long term thing but moisture and dirt will attract electrolysis and can damage the copper. Do what you can to isolate the copper from the dirt. Insulate it, wrap it or whatever. Chad
When i installed my pool 3 years ago i had 2″ PE pipe installed ( approx 175′ ) in case i wanted to add a generator or pool heater later on. i just noticed now that the cap on the riser had come off. whats the best way to clean any debris or water that might have gotten into the pipe ? thanks
Oh boy! That’s a long run. Start with some high pressure air from the opposite end from the open end. 2″ pipe should be big enough to run a snake and drag a rag though, pull that one from the end that has been closed toward the open end. You should be able to tell if there is any debris and moisture down there. Constant air flow like from a shop vac will do some drying also. Good Luck, Chad
Hi Chad and Darren,
I would first use a shop vac to blow the line out. Start with the vac at the clean end and push air to the dirty end. Then move the shop vac to the dirty end and set it up to suck. Tie a rag to a roll of surveyor’s string, insert it into the pipe from the clean end, use the shop vac to suck the rag through the 2″ pipe. Be prepared, it’s going to go through quickly. When you’re done cleaning out the pipe, leave the string in the pipe. The string can be used later to help pull the wires through the pipe.
I hope this helps ya,
Rich
Sorry I’m lost in this comment and can’t find the original question from Darren.
What is the best fill material for a gas line trench. The final surface above the trench is zerioscape rock – approx half inch in size.
David,
Usually, and it depends on your county, but I cover my pipe with about 6 inches of good clean no rock dirt or sand if good dirt is hard to find. After that your should be good to fill the rest of the ditch with whatever is handy. But this is always a good question to ask your inspector. They like questions from home owners, just call on the phone.
Hi Chad – thanks for the great information here. I’m planning on converting a wood burning fire pit to propane. I’m going to use a 20lb gas tank that will live about 8′ away from the fire and pipe under the gravel we put down. What size PE would you recommend for a run that short?
Hey Dalton, I don’t know the BTU’s of your burner but you could use a chart like this: https://fire-boulder.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/PipeSizing.pdf
It’s probably going to 1/2 inch pipe.
Good luck
Chad
Chad, thanks for helping us weekend DIY folks! I have a lot of experience doing many things in my own homes but have never tackled gas lines. I just bought an existing home and want to run gas lines from my meter to 3 different locations: 1. Pole barn (125 ft away) 2. Nat gas grill (5-20 ft away) 3. Outdoor fireplace (50 ft away). The meter riser is coming up through the ground/landscaping gravel at the back of the house and the main 1″ line enters into the basement utility room. The pole barn and fireplace will be permanent locations so I’ll run lines underground based on your instructions. The grill may be in different locations so I want a quick connect flex line that I can connect or disconnect and move around. What is the best way to make these 3 separate connections to the meter and to allow shut-offs for each one? Please let me know if you need additinal information and thanks again!
Dan, That’s a lot of gas pipe. First I’d contact your gas company and ask them if your meter is going to be large enough. You’ll need to know your total BTU’s. Also, it wouldn’t be a dirty trick, but get a couple of bids or at least one that you feel comfortable with and get the answers your want. The reason I say it wouldn’t be a dirty trick is because you may decide to have it done or do part of the job, like digging and refilling ditches. Some contractors are very willing to not do the dirt work. Ask for a job plan. Now you’ll know your pipe sizes and locations for shut off valves.
We are having a hard time in our area with contractors. Prices are out the roof and scheduling is a nightmare. Lumber prices are up 100% since the last low in 2009 about. I wish you well. Chad
Thanks so much Chad. I’ll contact the gas company and then a contractor and go from there. You can bet I’ll come back to you with any questions that come up. Have a good day!
Anytime
I’m repairing the gas lines that had ran to a big building and small house. The lines to the house were rusted metal that I trashed. The building had a 1″ black plastic line that goes to the meter location at street, the other end to a metal riser at building. Is there a way to tie into the black plastic line to divert to the house? Second question, is the black plastic pipe legal today and are there fittings that attach to it? Thanks, Duane
Duane, Looks like you’re tackling a large project. You need to know the brand of black pipe to know the proper fitting that would (legally) attach to the pipe. Almost every brand of pipe has a specific fitting. You should be able to find out what pipe is correct for your project from either your local gas utility or county building department. They could also tell you if you can divert to the house. Every building department has a little different way of procedure. Good luck, Chad
Gas line installation to outdoor fireplace: I plan on extending black pipe thru my attic down thru the drywall and out the stucco to the back yard (90 elbow outside about 18″ off the ground). Once Im outside it will be a 90 going down into a 1 in nipple then a union connection to a home flex riser. Do I need a shut off valve before the riser going down? This underground homeflex will be under a concrete slab ending at a gas fireplace about 20ft away from the house. My thought was that I would just put one at the end of riser coming back up from underground before the fireplace appliance. Thoughts?
Hi Jonathan,
I don’t relish running hard pipe in an attic when flex is so easy. It cost a bit more but the time saved is huge. Shut off valves are handy when you want to isolate a section of gas being served especially to a separate building or an outdoor fireplace. Always check with your local building department for specifics for your area.
Good Luck
Chad
Running gas line to detached garage for new heater. Would it be ok to tee off the line in my basement rather than outside meter ? It would save me about 20 feet of digging and save me from navigating under a deck and sidewalk. Fyi – the house furnace is the only current gas appliance I have. Thanks
Tom. Without knowing the BTU’s of the furnace and the length of the pipe it’s impossible to determine. Always best to make a home run from the meter and knowing you’re not robbing fuel from another appliance. Sorry if that seems like bad news. You could possibly find a local person who would calculate the piping for your new heater. Maybe even your local utility.
existing gas house furnace (only gas appliance I have) is located a total of about 20 ft from where the meter is. It is 1/2 ” pipe the whole way. The new gas garage heater I wish to add is 50,000 btu and would be about 70 feet from the house furnace. Could i just tap in after the house furnace and continue it out to garage. what size would i need to run ?
it would be much easier than trenching under sidewalk and deck to reach meter.
Tom,
Never a good idea to tap into an existing line unless you know that the line from the meter will supply enough gas for both appliances. You could end up starving the furnace when the garage heater came on. I often suggest with these semi complicated gas runs for home owners to get a bid or quote from a couple of contractors and you may even chose to use one of them. But they would have the info your looking for. It’s best to have eyes on the job. Here’s a link to a gas pipe sizing chart https://www.control-specialties.com/blog/SIZING-NATURAL-GAS-AND-PROPANE-LINES/. I’m assuming it’s natural gas and not propane. From what you said it looks like 1/2 inch will do 50K BTU’s at 70 feet. Need to know the BTU’s of the furnace and total length of the line from the meter to determine if you can tap into the line.
Chad
Chad
Hello Chad,
I have a 3/4″ riser and using Home-Ex poly tubing coming out of a concrete slab in the patio area. I need to move the natural gas pipe stub about 28″ so that it comes out under a barbecue. Would it be okay to remove the riser, use a coupler to connect to the Home-Ex, cut the concrete to create a 2 inch channel going to the new location and lay the Home-Ex in the channel and then cover with concrete? I am trying to make this a simple as possible.
DS
Hi David, I think as long as you are cutting the concrete it’s best to go all the way thru and put the home-ex in the dirt and then a sleeve as it goes through any concrete. I don’t believe the poly pipe is meant to be in concrete without some type of sleeve.
Understood, trying to play by the rules here too. Thanks anyway!
Hi Chad,
I’m running a gas line out to a pole barn, from the meter out front basically all the way around the house to the pole barn in the back. I have the line size calculated at 1.25″ based on the BTU load and distance, and I understand the bury depth and what PE pipe/connectors to use, and to use a coated steel riser at the gas meter… But what about at the pole barn? I’d really like to come up with the gas line inside the barn (in the wall ideally so that the black steel pipe will be hidden), thru a concrete slab that will soon be poured. Code seems to want the pipe to come up on the outside with a riser, and seems opposed to entering the building in the wall, or even thru a liner of some kind because of gas buildup/explosion risks, but then they list exceptions:
2415.17.1 Limitations. Plastic pipe shall be installed outdoors underground only. Plastic pipe shall not be used within or under any building or slab or be operated at pressures greater than 100 psig (689 kPa) for natural gas or 30 psig (207 kPa) for LP-gas.
Exceptions:
1. Plastic pipe shall be permitted to terminate above ground outside of buildings where installed in premanufactured anodeless risers or service head adapter risers that are installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Plastic pipe shall be permitted to terminate with a wall head adapter within buildings where the plastic pipe is inserted in a piping material for fuel gas use in buildings.
Number 2 sounds like maybe what I need/want, but I can’t find any info on what a “wall head adapter” is. I can’t just use a steel riser and bring that into the wall thru the concrete floor? What is normally used in this situation? Help!
Thanks!!
I’ve found that speaking to the inspector works better than reading the code book.
Thanks for the comment, I updated my article regarding your question with a photo of my shop riser into the building.
I can only speak for the half of dozen counties I’ve done work in, but as an example let me use my own shop. I installed the gas line after construction. I core drilled a two inch hole through the bottom 24 plate and the concrete. With the ditch ending just under the footing. I then poked the riser up into the wall of the shop.
Jesse,
Thanks Chad,
That’s a fair point.. I’ve been asking my local inspector lots of questions thru the build, but wasn’t sure in this case if asking was going to be opening a can of worms and further complicate my build, or if it would be a simple answer – especially given that the code isn’t crystal clear to me in this case. I’m trying to avoid having to core drill, hence prepping everything prior to concrete.. maybe not easier after all though!
Thanks!
Jesse, you mentioned lining the hole with something like PVC and pouring the concrete around that and later inserting the riser. I think your inspector would go for that.
Well, the inspector says can’t come thru concrete pad into building unless it’s in conduit (the riser I guess) and the building side of the conduit must be sealed, with the outside end of the conduit open to air or vented to atmosphere… All of which I’d like to avoid since its on the porch/driveway corner of the building. That vent will get run over by a lawnmower for sure! He doesn’t understand why I don’t want to just pop up the riser next to the building and come in thru the wall. One of his points was “how do you replace the riser if it goes bad, once it’s installed in the conduit and set in the concrete?” – I’ll admit it would take additional digging to get under the concrete a few inches.. but not impossible? Any other ideas? Thanks!
I guess I’m stuck, like you. There’s a couple things I’d like to say but they would be written. Inspectors have the final word. Good Luck.
Thanks for the great article! I have a situation where our house’s gas line runs past a garden shed that I would like to put pavers in front of which would be above the gas line. Since it all sits on a hill, I have found the gas line is only a few inches below what would be the ‘new’ grade around the shed. Would I need to create a new, deeper run? Or can I cover with pavers or concrete? In the yard the line is probably 14″ deep or so.
Thanks for the comment Karl. It sounds like you would have better protection of the gas line with the pavers over the top of the line that you do now. This is the gas companies line, right? If it’s the line from the street to the meter you could always consult the gas company. They would likely drop by and take a look.
Thanks for the quick reply Chad! No this is the line from the meter to the house.
Oh, in that case technically it should be 18 inches deep. But you be the judge. Safety and liability are really important.
I’m making my open fire pit a natural gas pit. I have natural gas to my grill approximately 25′ away. my fire pit currently sits into my patio and is surrounded by patio stones and a wall. My plan is to drill under the patio stone and up into the fire pit for the natural gas line. My question is, do I need to have the PE pipe go through any risers or PVC pipe when fishing it under my patio stones up into the pit to connect to the new gas insert, or can I just fish the PE pipe through and add a connection?
Hi Brian,
Local code always apply’s to what’s required, especially under finished concrete or pavers. I would just have to guess that if the soil is free of obstructions or fairly clean dirt the just the PE pipe would be fine without a liner. Your local county should be open to that question and I know that here in my county the inspector would even stop by and take a look and make a judgement call on the installation. Then you know it’s all clear when you go for the final inspection.
Good luck with your project.
Chad
Just curious if you need the riser piece, since the PE line is flexible, can’t i just turn it up out of the ground where i want the line to terminate?
Hi Chris, The PE pipe is meant to be buried. The risers are steal so they can’t be damaged above ground. Pretty sure you’d find that in your local code or ask your local county inspector. They love it when you ask them questions. Helps them to know you’re gonna do it right.
Thanks for asking
Getting ready to run a gas line for a fireplace in my backyard and this was incredibly helpful! Thank you so much!
Thanks Brandon