Can Mini Split Lines Run Up?

91 Comments

1. Need help, 18×35 open floor, living room ,dinning and kitchen in order, 10×13 open pantry off kitchen. easiest would be to place air handler on back kitchen wall. 9 foot ceilings,(15 foot line set) stove would be off set to side 3 feet from air handler. other option would be living room wall and require 35 of line set and run thu ceiling. opinion would appreciated tyia.

   1. James, I’ll have to give you my default answer when I just can’t comprehend a situation. Call a couple of contractors for quotes and pick there brain. Don’t feel like you’re taking advantage of them. You may really like what they have and decide to use one of them. Chad

2. Hi Chad
   We’re converting a seasonal log cabin to year round. It’s on a steep hill with a large open crawl space. We’d like to place the condenser in the crawl space and run the tubing through the floor as opposed to putting holes in the chink between the logs. Any thoughts on this? Are there any units that are designed for floor installation?
   Thanks
   James

   1. James, Condensers are designed to be outside. Placing the condenser in the crawl space would lower the temperature in the crawl space and extremely lower the efficiency of the system. -Chad

3. Hi Chad, Great blog. The interior and exterior units come out to the same level and about three feet apart. The interior unit is in the basement and the exterior unit is mounted on the other side of the wall. So can I run the line set up from the evaporator? Like thee feet up and then 4ft across another 3ft and then down to the compressor. To achieve the minimum line set requirement of ten feet.

   1. Steve, I think it will work fine. You can always call customer support for your particular brand and ask them to be sure and know that your warranty is covered. Chad

4. Hi Chad, I’m installing a 3 unit system in new construction. Can I run all 3 refrigerant lines together through the attic, down the inside of the wall and out to the outside unit in one hole? If so, how big should that hole be?

   1. Katie, if you have the line sets then group them together how you want them and take some measurements. If you don’t have them then figure about two inches per set. You’ll have a better idea as you go and are ready to cut the hole. Make it generous enough to not crowd the lines. Be careful not to kink and mark each set if it difficult to follow where they came from. – Chad

5. Hi Chad,
   I’m in the process of planning an install for a 4 zone 36000 (9K) each Minisplit system in a large basement with 2 bedrooms, 2 full baths, and a recreation room. My question is about running the line sets, I was planning on running the line sets in drop ceiling boxes that are approximately 8″ tall and 12″ wide. these form a box ceiling in the bedrooms and rec room but provide a continuous chase to run the lines sets vs having to drill through floor joists. Do you know if there is any issue running the line sets inside these. I have to make several flared joints in one of them as the MFG does not provide line sets in enough length for it to be continuous. I plan to place a plastic flush mount ceiling box where the joint is for future access. is there any issue making these joints inside the ceiling boxes if they have access? I plan to run the drain line to each immediately outside to a patio location and tie the ones close enough into gutter drains with check valves. The main thing is the line sets run along the ceiling in a drop box that goes around the entire room.

   1. Cary, sounds like a complicated install. The main thing you need to watch for is each manufacturer has a maximum length for line sets. Do some research and find that length before continuing. Too long of line set can drastically reduce efficiency and create compressor problems. Chad

6. I just want to double check after reading some of the questions and answers I want to get your opinion. I am installing a mini split with a 25 feet line. My wall is only 7 feet tall so when I run the line outside I am going to have close to 15 feet of line to deal with. I was thinking of laying the coiled line flat to prevent any traps. Other than having to see a coiled line is there any issue to being that much line outside exposed to cold and heat.

   1. Michael, Hard to measure but I doubt you will have any bad effects, just do your best and enjoy the efficiency.

7. Hi Chad,

   I am replacing corroded polyfoam insulation on my Mitsubishi Mini-Split with the closed cell elastomeric insulation that prevents mold mildew etc., so I am one of the few looking for pre-slit. I like the look of the KFLEX with the overlap flap to seal. The problem I am running into is finding avail 1/4″ insulation.
   Can I use the 3/8″ insulation on both the 3/8″ and 1/4″ lines or will that extra 1/8″ spacing on the 1/4″ line cause a problem?

   1. Jude, I think the 3/8 insulation should do a fine job. For full sized heat pumps they don’t even insulate the smaller line.

8. Hi Chad,
   I’m installing a 24k mini split in my un-insulated 450 sq. ft. garage with 10ft ceilings. There will be approximately 25-30ft run of line to the outside unit. For aesthetics, I’d like to run the lines (other than the drain) from the inside unit up inside an exterior wall into the attic space, over and down through an exterior wall, then outside to the compressor unit.
   Should I insulate the lines running inside the walls and attic space?
   Do you see an issue with the inside unit being the low point on the inside line run? (the outside unit will be the lowest in the system)

   Respectfully,
   TonyD

   1. Tony, yes all the lines should be insulated, they usually come that way. The routing you described sounds like a good way to go. Should look good that way. – Chad

      1. Chad,
         I plan on routing my lineset the same as Tonyd. That being said, my inside unit will be on an interior wall and I’d like to go straight up that wall into the attic, across the attic, out then down to the Condeser. Is this OK? And is there any specifics I should follow or apply?. Thankya sir

         1. Jonathan, should work good. Don’t kink it and hang it with straps every 4 feet or so.

9. I’m putting s mr cool diy in my moms house and there is no exterior wall large enough for the unit. My thoughts were to run the line across the interior wall exposed and then out the exterior wall.down the exterior and into the condenser. I know it won’t look pretty but will this be ok. It’s a mobile home and I don’t have the know how of removing walls the run through the wall.

   1. Christina, I think as long as you don’t mind looking at it then it should work great. -Chad

10. Hi Chad. I am installing a dual split system and my concern after reading some of the posts here is trying not to create a trap in the line. My lines from the indoor unit angle slightly downward as it exits the wall to the outside. The lines coming out of the wall are about 16 inches under the eave. I angled the lines up until they run up against the eave in order to get above above a doorway and a window, and I thought it would be less unsightly running clear up along the eave. It then goes around a corner about three feet and then strait down to the outdoor unit. The other one is a no brainer as it is on the same wall as the outdoor unit (which is on the rear of the building, gable wall, so I don’t care about looks back there) and it just comes out, straight across, and then down to the unit. What I am worried about now is on the first unit where I make the bend up the the eave, am I creating a problem there??

    1. Randy,
       Avoiding trap is not always possible, just preferable. If you have any doubts it’s always advisable to take pictures and communicate with engineering dept or technical support for the product you’re installing. With the support of the company you are dealing with you will protect any warranty you may have. Traps are a problem when they collect too much oil from the compressor. Line velocity will take care of a certain amount (hard to measure). Hope that helps. – Chad

11. The Mitsubishi system I am looking at has a maximum number of refrigerant pipe bends in system. Can I have larger radius bends to avoid a bend hit? If so what radius would suffice to avoid the bend restriction when needed?

    1. Tom, that sounds like a question for Mitsubishi tech support. I’m just not a very techy person, sorry.

12. I have an option to put the minisplit dual unit condenser on ground vs on the roof. The roof slope is small, so we can easily walk on it. It is Eichler home without attic. Any potential serious problem if I put it on the roof? No matter ground or roof, Technician needs to drill the overhang to connect one pipe from other side of the house to the minisplit condenser ( one wall unit nearby, another one far on opposite side) . I wonder is it worthy to put it on the roof to save the space.
    I really appreciate if you can answer this questions which most of my neigbors having too.

    1. Wingo, If space is a concern then the roof works well. Accessibility for servicing is important but it sounds like you’re okay. Holes in roofs are always a risk depending on the skill of the installer and the material used. Check the work. – Chad

13. Hi Chad, Great blog post, thank you for sharing.
    I have a situation where the refrigeration lineset needs to go out from an upstairs bedroom, across a flat roof of the attached garage, And then down to the compressor, which is at the back corner of the garage. About 40-50 feet in total. What is the best way to protect the line set as it travels horizontally across the flat roof? I am aware of the normal line covers that attach to siding and protect the lines traveling vertically along the house, but I’m not sure if those could be used horizontally across a roof here in NY.

    1. Stephen, I noticed they make a metal cover that should provide adequate protection available on Amazon. Search for “EAGLE 1 Metal Line Set Cover Kit”. Shouldn’t break or crack if stepped on and not be effected by UV or sun. – Chad

14. On the question of minumum length. If the unit is properly charged by a Pro there shouldn’t be an issue with too short.

    1. Gary, I contacted technical support for an installation that I did to inquire about minimum length. They told me they required a minimum of 10 feet to protect the warranty on the equipment. Always a good idea to ask. I found it really difficult to write an all inclusive article that would address minimum length for all brands and all models within each brand. Just call technical support is my default. – Chad

15. Hey Chad,
    have you ever intentionally formed a p trap with the copper suction line of a mini-split ?
    My situation is this :

    4 head miniplit 36kbtu heat pump from senville

    1 head in standard mounting position on an outside wall going up. D’ont think I need one here (p trap)

    1 head installed in the basement so line set comes out of condenser, goes up two feet, horizontal for 15-18 feet and then down a foot or two to the evap. P trap needed???

    2 heads through the attic (12 feets up), 12 feets horizontal (or close enough) and then 2 feet down to the evaps. P trap needed???

    1. Hugo, we are in a world of opinions vs experience. In over 40 years I’ve never intentionally installed a trap in a residential system. I’ve also never experienced any adverse conditions as a result of having no traps. There could be some conditions that would benefit from a trap but I think they would be extreme conditions. When all else fails as far as dependable information, talk to the tech department for the equipment you purchased and do as they say. It will protect your warranty. Good Luck – Chad

       1. Thanks for the info

16. Thanks for the helpful article. I am looking to install a mini split that comes with 25 feet of refrigeration lines. I want to avoid looping a lot of extra line behind the compressor. I am thinking about running the line out the side of the indoor unit (instead of out the back) and gently curving up through the ceiling into the attic space where I can lay the excess line coiled horizontally and then run it back down through the ceiling and along the wall until I direct it outside near the compressor. This is in a garage so I am not worried about the look of the lines. I just want to make sure it is okay to run the lines up about 2 feet, over 8 feet, coil, and then run back down. I would run the drain line separately. Thanks

    1. Craig. I think you should be fine. A lot of what I talked about traps is to do with neatness. There’s a lot of velocity of the refrigerant to move the oil around. – Chad

17. Hi, I am curious about the first picture with the X over the line set. I am looking at installing the DIY brand in a house I’m building. And as you know the lines are all sorts of lengths so I am sure I will have a roll or two to deal with. My plan is to run all the lines into my crawl space leave any extra coiled up there and then stick what is needed outside to the unit. Now my question is would it be best to lay the remaining coiled up line set on its side or am I overthinking it? All the interior units will be on interior walls as the exterior walls will be ICF.

    1. Scott, if you lay the coil horizontal then it’s a no brainer, no traps. Just tie the loops up to the floor joists. – Chad

18. I am looking to install a multi-zone mini split for my two upstairs bedrooms. My house is structure in such a way that on either side of my upstairs rooms is a portion of my attic. The way my house is structured means the lines may have to run through a wall, into part of the attic for a few feet, and down through the eaves of the house to the condenser on the outside. Assuming I run it without it having slopes/sags, etc. my question is will there be any foreseeable issues with the lines not immediately going through the wall to the outside, having to pass through this part of the attic first?

    1. Joe, You should be good. Can’t see any problems with that. -Chad

       1. What about the drain lines? Can those run upward from the mini split through the attic

          1. Dennis, you have to use a condensate pump. They make a pump specifically for mini splits.

19. We are installing a mini split in our master bedroom which is on the second floor. The hole has been drilled, slight slope and a wall sleeve installed. We will be using a line set cover to protect the drain, electrical and insulated line set. My questions
    1. How do you make the exit hole insulated and water proof. We will caulk around the top of the line set cover, but something needs to fill the edge of the wall sleeve and the space left in the sleeve.
    2. Do we need to tape all 4 together though it will be in the cover, what kind of tape.
    3. Once all 4 exit the lineset cover the drain will be straight down to concrete pad. What would you use to cover the other 3 as they traverse to the compressor, less than 2 feet.
    I have watched an obscene amount of You tube. I’ve seen putty, caulk, taped, not taped, large insulated tubes or clamps. No one explains what and why they choose these items.
    We live in the cascade foothills southeast of Seattle, lots of rain.

    1. Opal,
       1. I use foam seal, that expanding foam stuff you can get at you local hardware store.
       2. Bundling the lines is not required and I don’t think adds any benefit other than maybe a plastic tie or two to aid in fitting the line into the cover.
       3. I just leave the lines raw just forming them to look neat. They should have the pipe insulation on them of course.
       4. YouTube can confuse the heck out of you. Sounds like your on your way to a good job

20. Is there a preferred method and material to hang refrigerant lines from floor joists? I plan to install a DIY mini split with two air handlers. Both sets of lines will run under the house to the compressor. They will be within manufacturer recommended maximum line length. Thanks in advance.

    1. Hi Chuck,
       I used two methods. Ace Hardware had some plastic two hole straps (about 2″) in there electrical section and the other is nylon strap that you can staple to rafters or joists. The think inspectors in my area don’t like to see is steel straps that could rub through or react to copper.
       Chad

21. Can I install a mini split on wall run line up and through the ceiling and outside… so unit up 2 feet 90 deg bend 20 feet in ceiling 90 deg bend to the outside…. or is that to many bends?

    1. Matthew,
       That’s a pretty common number of bends or 90’s. Should work fine.
       Chad

22. Dear Chad, I am trying to cover up my mini-split lines that are outside and just received my cover, but they have MINIMAL instructions. I think I’m smart enough to figure it out, but as I was prepping to install, my wonderful dad/handy-man stopped by and warned me that bending the pipe is a HUGE no-no. But how then do I install the cover which requires a 90 degree bend to START with? What is the proper instruction for bending a pipe? (Tools, technique, warnings, etc???)

    1. Hi Christine, it’s always a little harder after he install, but not impossible. Since the lines are under pressure I would suggest calling a couple HVAC companies and explain your situation. It may only cost you a service call to have a tech that has a pipe bender to examine your install and say yea or nae on if it can be done. You may even be able to send them a picture and not pay the service call if it can’t be done. It requires some experience to know when to bend or not to bend copper. Once it kinks you got problems. It can be done.
       Good Luck
       Chad

    2. Hi Chad, we have a room which doesn’t have space for a mini split head on an exterior wall (the window is too large). If we place the head on an interior wall, is it okay to have the line set connections inside the house (I.e. in a closet or over a dead space)?
       Thank you!

       1. Tyler,
          You bet. Any which way you can. Keep them between the minimum and maximum lengths. They can even run exposed in the room and frame a cover over top.
          Chad

          1. Thank you for the quick response! I am thinking of buying “Easybend mandrels” for bending the line set. Marketair and Rectorseal sell them. I have heard they prevent kinking. Also, since the mandrels go inside the line set, you don’t need to remove the insulation. Do you have experience with the product and would you recommend it?

             1. Those are new to me. They should work fine and principle looks sound. Let me know how they work out.

23. HI CHAD I am installing a mini split that has one outdoor compressor with 3 indoor units. it would be fairly easy and i think look the best if i ran all the lines for all 3 indoor units through one larger hole through the wall. the house has concrete walls using ICF insulated concrete forms. I could go through the wall right at the compressor so only a couple of feet of line would show on the outside and run the other lines under the floor joists. what do you think ?

    1. Hey Norman,
       Sounds like a plan. Keeps it clean looking, I like it.
       Chad

24. I am looking to install a DIY MrCool mini split and the best location is above a large window. Is it possible to have the line exiting from the indoor unit run nearly parallel above the window till I turn a 90 and run the line down to the unit.

    Thanks,
    Kevin

    1. That would work fine. Good luck with your install.

25. I’m installing a Mr. Cool DIY 24K unit and I’ll end up with a single loop of extra line set. The Mr. Cool installation video shows what looks like two loops so I guess it’s OK?
    https://youtu.be/8azVFHrGxh8?t=118

    1. JP, I think as long as you follow installation instructions your warranty will be good. They don’t leave a lot of choice when the line set is a fixed length.

       1. Thanks. It seems like most of the DIY installations end up with loops so it must not be that much of a problem. The only other option is to create an “S” shape but I’m afraid of bending it back and forth with a tight radius.

          1. I’ve done the “S” thing. It’s tedious and not so good looking. I really think you’ll be okay with the coil. The bends in a coil are tight and the velocity of the refrigerant should keep the oil moving through the lines. You kind of have to imagine each loop collects a bit of oil from the compressor, as the oil level rises at the bottom of the loops it robs that amount of oil from the compressor. What is too many loops, I don’t know, it would vary with equipment size and that would be an engineering problem to figure out.

26. Hi Chad,
    I’m building a home in which the garage will be used as living space as needed. I want to put in a 24k btu mini split, but want to run the lineset after they close the walls up. Can it be snaked thru 3 in pvc in the wall with an elbow at the top where the air handler will be and out the bottom to the outside where the compressor is? Or do I need to bury the lineset now?

    Thanks!
    Jeff

    1. Hi Jeff,
       Not sure why you would want to run the lineset prior to closing the walls. You can buy the lineset only and install it and then buy the equipment later. I did write an article on running linesets in conduit if you didn’t see that it’s at https://homeheatproblems.com/can-i-run-my-mini-split-line-set-in-conduit/
       It can be tough to do. A lot of precautions need to be take when burying a lineset. Dirt and moisture will contaminate the lines. Use a 4″ corrugated drain line with no slots and make sure the exposed ends are sealed from any weather.
       Good luck.
       Chad

       1. Thanks Chad, I’ll give it some more thought. The conduit idea doesn’t seem as good now. Thanks again.

          1. Glad to help.

27. We’re currently converting a garage into an ADU and are adding a mini-split system in the living-room. It’s a small space at about 380 sqft total. We got a mr cool diy until and our ideal run would be from the top northeast corner of the adu to the ceiling space back towards the northwest corner and down to the condenser. I just don’t see a lot of ceiling runs being done online so I don’t know if I can go up from the blower unit like that. The walls are all bare, so now is the time to make any runs through the walls and ceilings. We can run it through the wall and out across the wall to the back. It just would be nice not to have the line running across an entire wall of the adu if possible. I appreciate any help.

    1. Jason, sorry it took me so long to reply. I was looking for pictures but can’t find the one I’m looking for. You should be good to run that line set up and over if I understand your comment. Bending the line coming out the back of the indoor unit is a little tricky but just be slow and careful. Straighten it out first and then bend it up. Watch for kinks.

       1. Thank You so much. That was a fast response by my standards. While I’m trying to figure this out, I was looking at the minimum space requirements for the unit, and it looks like the corner of that wall is probably the only spot that conforms with everything. Unfortunately the draftsman that designed the plans was looking at things on paper and not really in a practical real-world sense. He seems to be a bit green. That said, the outside of that same corner is where the sub-panel for the power to the ADU is located, so a collection of wiring runs through that wall and up to the rest of the space. As mentioned, luckily everything is still exposed, so I have the ability to a a little cable management, and will probably be adding some blocking to give me the ideal support for the mount, that said, are there any issues with running refrigerant line possibly quite close to all of the electrical? Worst case, it’s looking like it might be easiest to run out of the wall, and then up as close to the eave as possible and the across then down. I appreciate any feedback. Thanks again.

          1. I have read that the control cable being run in proximity of some electrical circuits can play havoc with the computer in the outdoor unit. But that is overcome by using shielded wire for the communication wire between the two units. It’s more money but worth not having the problems. I’ve never had the problem, but I remember wholesalers putting shielded cable in my quotes.

             1. Thanks again for the advice. After some measuring and planning, it looks like I will probably have to have the blower unit slightly off center. since center would place the line set holes right in the middle of the stud. So far the plan is to bring it out the wall, turn it up towards the eave, and then come back in over the window where less things are going on, and then run it through the ceiling space and then back out to the back of the house where the compressor will live. I’m thinking of doing this so I don’t have the lines running along the wall. Is it worth it running through the ceiling this way? Another possibility I’ve thought of is running up as high into the eave space and then fur out the eave and cover the line set with plywood. (I would still strap it to the wall to keep it straight). The link below is a photo of the inside space I’m having to work with.
                https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SGNijkhAUQOxMFaUpMbQoBieauMtEvNU/view?usp=sharing
                Thanks again.

             2. You could drill out the joists in that ceiling and snake the lines through. It’s a 2 person job. I line the holes with duct tape and the lines slide right through.

             3. Thank you again for your help so far, this will probably be the last time I bug you. I’ve had some time to think about how to approach this install since there are other parts that needed completion in between. After checking out the blower unit, I notice that there is a cavity in the back that allows the attached line set section to run over to the left side of the unit. I called the manufacturer and asked if I can also run it trhough this cavity and out the back left of the unit, but they said that sudden sharp 90 degree turn required would not be a good idea, that there is a hole you can punch out the side of the cover but then it runs out in the inside wall. This didn’t sound like a great solution. So looking at it, it might not be good to do a sudden turn at the corner of the unit, but I can probably start angling it slightly so that it turns out towards the middle of the unit and then cut through that left stud so that it can come out the left wall space. I can run the line set on top of the rafters with a space I have up there and cut down to meet the blower lines in that wall space. They had suggested I need a pump for the condensate line since I’m going up above the unit, but since I have the wall exposed, I wonder if I can just run it down separately through a pvc line and out the bottom of the outside wall. This way I avoid ugly line set covers except for where it comes out in the back of the house. Is there something I’m not thinking of, or figuring wrong? Any advice is appreciated. The link below shows my idea:
                https://drive.google.com/file/d/1K-5LKch357bcpo5o4m3Mkkg-M1zX5oQ4/view?usp=sharing
                Thanks again.

             4. Jason it looks like you have a good idea. You certainly can run that condensate separately. In fact it’s best to run it without a pump if possible. Pumps are always a problem, eventually and they cost money. Good luck and let me know how it turns out.
                Chad

28. Hi Chad. Very helpful article! Thank you. My line sets (I have two minisplits) currently runs vertically down the back of my house about 15 feet and then two feet horizontally on the back of the house where it branches off to the condenser. I’m installing a deck off the back and the steel manufacturer doesn’t want to build around the line sets, so I have to move them so they run horizontally two feet to the property line and then down vertically 15 feet. One plumber who dib the job told me that the line-sets will likely break in trying to move them since they are 8 years old or will leak and says I am better off replacing them. He’s asking $3kfor the job which is almost half what I paid for the installation including the two minisplits themselves. Is it really necessary to replace the lines in your opinion? Is there an easier way to do it? Many thanks for any advice!

    1. Hi Bliss, I think you should get another opinion. Copper doesn’t harden or break when bent properly. A good technician could do it easily unless there’s something I’m not seeing. $3K sounds awful high. Good luck. Chad

       1. Thanks so much Chad for your response! It sounded odd to me too. Wish you were in NYC and I could have you come do it!

          1. You’re welcome. Refer back anytime.

29. Got a 24,000 btu mini split with 25 foot line set.i need to extend line set to 50 foot. Will extra 25 feet affect it much?

    1. Dave,
       You are approaching a maximum that you should call the technical support group for you particular mini split. It is also in the installation instructions that come with your unit or will also be available online by model number. It’s good you are investigating before doing.

30. i’m looking into buying two 12k ducted mini splits. They are going to be used to cool two rooms each.

    What is the max duct run that they can have? I’m going to center the units between the two rooms as close as possible, that way duct runs are minimum. Maybe 5-6′ at most. Would that be okay?

    1. Andrew, it sounds like you are well within the average limits but it’s always best to dig into the installation instructions that come with all equipment and should be available online before a purchase just to be safe. Sounds like a great project.
       Chad

31. Hi Chad, what an informative article about mini splits, thank you. We are building a lane house which will have a 400 sq ft main floor and a 200 sq ft upper level. I was considering ductless mini splits for occasional A/C but really wanted to hide the inside units entirely. Realizing that this wasn’t very efficient, I came across ducted mini splits which seem to check all the boxes in that we could install the units in and above the closets both up and downstairs, and they’d be totally hidden except for a grill. What is your experience with ducted the versions? Is there a requirement for much ducting for the air inflow to the units or could it basically be a very short stretch to the side wall of the closet with an intake grill right next to the unit itself? From your article it does seem possible to hide all the tubing from the condenser in the wall, especially easy with new construction. We do have a very small flat roof section, but I’ve never seen a condenser that can sit flat instead of tall which we would need it to do. I assume they sit ‘tall’ for the fan blade air intake clearance?
    Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

    1. Hey Graham,
       I don’t have any experience installing ducted mini splits. From what I’ve read they require short duct run. They can’t overcome a lot of static developed by long runs of ducting. You’re right about all of them sit tall. Haven’t seen any low profile units yet.
       Good luck with the new home.
       Chad

32. Hi Chad,
    I want to replace my original duct HVAC with one or two ductless systems. I have a couple questions:
    1. Can the condenser be installed in a crawl space under the house, hanging from the floor above?
    2. Can refrigerant lines use the space the ducts used to go up to the attic area to supply the air handlers?

    2000 sqft (possible placement in garage too)
    3 bdr, 2 rarely used
    Large main/family room
    Thanks,
    Nick

    1. Nick, The condensers are designed to be outside and yes you can run refrigeration lines in abandoned duct work.

33. Hi Chad,

    Great article, great info, thank you!

    You mention avoiding sags or droops and avoid setting up traps in the lineset. I’m considering an installation where the lineset (just the copper, not the drain line) would go up, then down a few inches in elevation as it leaves the condenser, then would run horizontally for 10-15 feet before turning vertical to go up to the wall mount unit. Does that fall into the category of a droop or a trap? Does the lineset need to consistently gain elevation from the condenser to the wall mount, or is a small elevation drop along the way acceptable?

    Thanks,
    Chris

    1. Hi Chris, I think the key word is to “avoid” which I should add “do your best to avoid”
       Refrigeration systems generally produce enough velocity to handle some droops in the line where it’s just really difficult to avoid them. There’s that word again.

       1. Thanks again Chad. I’ve seen ‘trap’ referenced a lot online but haven’t seen what really defines a trap. The gist seems to be that it’s a distinct U or upside U shape in the line, so I’m wondering if my line layout–which equates to a very wide, flat U shape essentially–is problematic. Based on what I’ve read in the LG documentation though, it seems like it’s a not major issue if the elevation changes are minor and if they’re not abrupt.

          1. I’ve seen some really sloppy installations with line sets that have lots of droops and sags that ran for 20 years. It’s just good practice to run the lines with some craftsmanship in mind realizing that remodel work is never perfect.

34. Air condition man put mini split and ran lines back of house how would it be better looks awful

    1. Some installers have limited aesthetics. Perhaps he didn’t install covers for the exposed refrigeration lines which can be painted to sort of blend in a little more. Hope something like that will work.

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