Thermostat Heat Anticipator Adjustment (A Simple Guide)
If you have a thermostat with a heat anticipator and are experiencing dramatic temperature swings, you have come to the right place.
The heat anticipator in simple mercury or snap action thermostats is adjustable. I can teach you here how to adjust your heat anticipation safely. You’ve probably wondered how to adjust a mechanical heat anticipator on a thermostat.
Whether your furnace is electric, gas, or oil doesn’t matter, and you have a non-digital thermostat, and with the cover off, you can see a small dial inside that reads “longer cycles.” You can make some simple adjustments.
Turn the dial counterclockwise for longer cycles for furnace-on time and clockwise for shorter cycles. I’ll teach you how to adjust your heat anticipator to maximize your furnace efficiency using two methods in this article.
One sort of flying by the seat of your pants and the other more technical using a meter to measure amperage. A shortcut (not available on all furnaces) is to look at the label. Some manufacturers put the setting in writing right on the label.
A heat anticipator anticipates the room temperature before it gets uncomfortable. It is a resistor you adjust, like turning your radio up and down. When you change a heat anticipator, you turn the heat up and down.
Because these loads vary from furnace to furnace, the thermostat must have an adjustable feature that compensates for these different loads. That adjustable feature is called an anticipator.
Here are the symptoms of a maladjusted heat anticipator.
- You get too hot, and then you get too cold.
- The furnace cycles on and off, and you are never warm enough.
If you’re experiencing symptom number one with the wild temperature swings, the anticipator is probably set at the more extended cycle position of .8 amps or close to it.
If number two is your problem, then the anticipator will be at a setting closer to .15 amps.
When reading the setting, be sure you are looking at the number the arrow is pointing towards, not the end touching the small wire circled around the little round fiberboard holding the thing together.
But then I removed this thermostat, which has no arrow for the anticipator setting. You may need to study up close to understand the individual construction of the anticipator in the particular thermostat you are adjusting.
Also, pay attention to the dust collected on the bi-metal toward the bottom of the image below. If your thermostat is in this condition, get a can of air or something to blow it out.
Dirt and grime can interfere with a thermostat’s operation. See the dust collected on the bi-metal in the lower left of the image below.
Which Anticipator Is Adjustable, Heat Or Cool?
The image above is a good representation of which anticipator is adjustable. The arrows pointing at stages 1 and 2 are the adjustable anticipators for heat. Although a little hard to see, the arrow labeled “fixed cooling anticipator” is pointed directly at a small resistor tucked under the mercury bulb mounting plate.
Why Is The Anticipator Setting Important?
What should a thermostat differential be set at? The correct anticipator setting is the one that keeps your home at the temperature you set the thermostat to heat. That’s how you achieve the ideal thermostat swing.
Probably one of the most neglected and least understood settings in an installer’s setup of a new system. Just a guess, but I would say that nearly half of the service calls I make that have mercury bulb or snap action (non-digital) thermostats have never had a meter put to them to test the setting.
Some furnaces have the anticipator setting listed on the wiring diagram or somewhere within the furnace cabinet.
Most newer systems have upgraded to digital thermostats that are preset at the factory. Within the setup of most higher-end digital stats, there is a cycle rate adjustment, which is essentially the same as an anticipator. Technical support for those thermostats will likely suggest that doesn’t need to be adjusted.
How Would A Thermostat React Without An Anticipator?
Good question. It is excellent because it will help you understand why a thermostat needs an anticipator. When a thermostat has a call for heat (which means the switch in the thermostat turns on the furnace), there is a time lag. It may take a minute or two for the furnace to heat up and the fan to kick on.
Then, it takes a bit of time for the warm air created by the furnace to heat the ductwork and deliver warm air into the structure or home. While this is happening, the house is still getting colder, maybe by a degree or two.
That’s why we need anticipators. To compensate for the lag time. It turns on the furnace before you sense the room getting cold. Make sense? I hope so.
Following the above chart, starting at number one, your home begins to cool down, and the thermostat says to turn on some heat somewhere along the red line without an anticipator.
When the furnace starts, and the ducts warm up, you may feel a chill when you get to number two.
Heading up to number three, it will get warm, and when it finally shuts off at number three, and the fan keeps running to cool down the elements or heat exchanger, you may start taking off some clothes.
But follow the black wavy line (sorry, it’s not a pretty line; I’m working on my graph skills). The gap between on and off is much smaller, meaning the temperature in the room doesn’t swing as wide, and you are much more comfortable with an anticipator in your thermostat.
How Should You Accurately Determine The Heat Anticipator Setting On A Room Thermostat?
Aside from moving the setting up and down until you reach a satisfactory comfort level, there is a technical way to adjust the anticipator. Accurately adjusting a heat anticipator on a thermostat requires an amp probe or am-meter, as they are sometimes called.
Care needs to be taken if you intend to use a jumper and a meter to measure heat anticipation. Remove one of the wires, usually red or white. These are typically labeled “R” or “W” on the thermostat. If you jump the R and W without removing one, you risk burning the small resistor wire in the anticipator.
With the thermostat wires removed, jump the wires leading to the furnace. Place a digital amp-meter over the wire and wait for the furnace, fan, and all to come on.
If you want to be a handyperson, you have to have a multimeter. Knowing how to test for electricity is much safer than guessing what’s there.
A customer recently called me about a breaker that kept tripping, and the breaker was running very hot. I put my amp meter around the wires to the furnace, and the amp draw was well within the limits of the breaker.
As it turned out, every wire in his panel was loose. A lot of heat can be created by loose wiring. This could have been a real problem if it was left unchecked. If you want to be that handy person and learn to use a meter, I’ve researched a few multimeters that can do the job without breaking the bank. Take a look at Amazon at this Fieldpiece Multimeter (#ad). I have two of these, one for backup.
Hello Chad; I’m one of those guys who hears “Hmm, never saw one like yours” often. My Mr. Heater F210359’s anticipator has no numbers or even hash marks. (heater says .05 amps) I have no idea how to set the anticipator and it cycles my 80,000btu Big Max often, only 1-2 degrees drop. I would like to adjust it for 3-4 degrees so it doesn’t turn on and off so much. There’s also a tab behind the pointer tang, is this another adjustment?
I’m a disabled veteran and telephone calls are difficult, Mr. Heater corp only does tech support by phone.
Thank you very much.
Michael, I’ve run into this before. Just take and slightly move the indicator one way or the other. If the cycles increase then move it the other way. I might help to mark the indicator before you move it and thank you for your service. – Chad
Hello, I hope you can help me. I’m in a 1995 Bounder with an SF-35 Suburban furnace. I have replaced several parts in the furnace and finally was down to replacing the thermostat. When I in stalled the new thermostat and called for heat it instantly burned up the small resistor wire on the anticipator. What happened here and how do I fix it. please?
Shiela, somewhere you have a shorted wire or component. You’ll have to locate the short. That is usually what burns anticipator wires. Go over all your work, hope you find it. -Chad
Furnace checks out fine but is cycling up to six times an hour which for four years cycled every 50 minutes. I have 4 Honeywell two new t two old and none of them will let me adjust to that 50 minute cycle before running out of space on the anticipater.it seems every year I have to fidget with it to run right. I have cleaned them before .. The best I can get now is 4 cycles an hour at the very end of the antiicipater. The tech goes thermostat issue not the furnace. And ideas? Thank you justin
Justin, I think I’d try a digital stat. You didn’t say what kind of furnace you have. If it’s electric you might what to change sequencers. Don’t know, sorry. Chad
Thank you for your site, Chad. And an Oregonian at that! I have an Emerson mechanical thermostat that runs electric baseboard units. It’s not ideal, but hey, I’m renting. My heat is on all the time unless I go to the breaker and shut it off. Last week I forgot before leaving for work and it was 90 degrees when I got home! Will adjusting the anticipator make any difference there? What else could be the issue? I have blown air onto it (that has worked in the past) but no luck this time.
Jason, your thermostats are wore out. I just furnished one of my customers with all new thermostats because he had the same problem. I you are up doing this yourself, turn off the power and remove a stat and go down to home depot and find all new replacements. If not get an electrician or a heating guy or gal. They are not expensive. I think I paid about $10 each. Good Luck. Chad
very clear i never did know how to use amp meter on stat thanks
Hi Chad, one thing I just don’t quite understand, and I’ve heard it said different ways, and even in the Honeywell T88 manual, is about the potential for burning out the anticipator wire. Can you help me understand how this happens. When you say “jumper”, are you saying to connect them together (wire-nut), or are you saying putting one of your meter test leads on the Red and the other on the White terminals? The complete current from the 24V transformer flows through the wire when the mercury switch is closed, right? So what over-current is going to burn it out when testing? Even if you short the Red and White together, that is basically what the mercury switch does, right? There is still the load at the heating unit, so it’s not like it is a short circuit. I just don’t get that warning. Hope you can help.
Thanks
Shane, the problem with opening a web site for questions is that some day someones going to ask you something you don’t have a good answer for. I just have enough experience at burning up anticipators that I always disconnect one wire before jumpering the two. From your question it sounds like you are using test leads to measure voltage. Are you trying to measure amps? Then you need am amp meter. I use alligator clips. But anything works to make a circuit that will allow the clamps from an amp probe to clamp around the wire. Hope that answers your question. Get back to me if not. I don’t mind pursuing the answer. – Chad
I may be being dense, sorry if that is the case. I understand your instructions to be that one would take the thermostat wires loose from the thermostat and wire-nut them together, so that the furnace comes on. Clamp the ammeter around the thermostat wires to get the reading. Is that correct?
Yes, be sure that you are shorting the red and white wire or the wires that were on the “R” and “W” terminals on the thermostat.
Thanks so much for your help. We have a house that’s over 100 years old with a big old Sears and Roebuck furnace about as long as a small pickup bed. I have air conditioning from a Trane brand unit that was here when we moved in 1978. I have had to put a few starter condencers in the motor over the years other than that it has not given me trouble until recently with the the cooling cycles seem to be erratic. I did blow the dust off of the coil that the mercury switch sets on. I am trying to adjust the anticipator. It was set pointing to the L. I may try to check the Amp draw. Msgt Denis L Neal USAF Ret
Hi Denis,
Hope that works for you. You might just move the anticipator a few points and see how it reacts.
Chad